test cook

Kit Wohl is a cookbook author and photographer. These recipes are available for anyone who would like to take them out for a test cook run. "Cooking is an art and a form of creative expression," she says. "Food is distinctive in form, color, texture, and flavor. The selection, preparation, and presentation of a meal are as creative as any art project. Best of all, it nurtures both the body and the spirit."

Thursday, June 15, 2006

 





























PRALINES

head note: Legend tells us that pralines were named after Cesar du Plessis Praslin a grand marshal of pre-Napoleonic France. Praslin’s cook, Clément Lassagne, it is said, coated his master’s almonds with sugar to prevent indigestion.

The crown jewel of New Orleans’ confections, there are as many praline recipes as bread pudding recipes. Everyone swears by their favorite. Sister Mary’s pralines are fragile, sugary and melt-in-your-mouth light–her version of the recipe passed down through generations of nuns. Say Prah-lean, not praw-lean. Otherwise, the locals will know that you are not from around here. Although, Sister Mary’s candies could appropriately be pronounced pray-leens.


Side Bar: As early settlers of New Orleans in the 1700s orders of nuns have provided cookery, medical care, gardening, education, and other charitable and religious services to the community. They have contributed mightily to the city’s heritage and spiritual well being. Nuns are credited with bringing the recipe for almond praline candy to New Orleans from France, and once here, substituted the readily available fresh pecans.

Today in an cloistered uptown convent surrounded by high brick walls and magnificent oak trees, the Poor Clare nuns live quietly in contemplative lives dedicated to poverty and prayer. Sister Mary makes and sells pralines as her part in sustaining the order. Visitors simply ring the convent bell. Sometimes the candies are available; at other times there are none to be had. This is Sister Mary’s recipe.

As early settlers of New Orleans in the 1700s orders of nuns have provided cookery, medical care, gardening, education, and other charitable and religious services to the community. They have contributed mightily to the city’s heritage and spiritual well being. Nuns are credited with bringing the recipe for almond praline candy to New Orleans from France, and once here, substituted the readily available fresh pecans.

Today in an cloistered uptown convent surrounded by high brick walls and magnificent oak trees, the Poor Clare nuns live quietly in contemplative lives dedicated to poverty and prayer. Sister Mary makes and sells pralines as her part in sustaining the order. Visitors simply ring the convent bell. Sometimes the candies are available; at other times there are none to be had. This is Sister Mary’s recipe.

Following Hurricane Katrina, photographer David G. Spielman whisked the Poor Clares safely to Texas. Their convent had not been unoccupied in the hundred years of it’s existance. He and Walker, his kitty, moved into the convent for three months and rang the bell each day in recognition of the the order. He’s now known as the honorary Sister Mary David. The nuns have returned to their convent and David, with Walker, has returned to his own home.


1 box (1 pound) light brown sugar
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 1/2 cups milk
Pinch of salt
2 1/2 cups roughly chopped pecans
1/2 stick (2 ounces) margarine
I teaspoon best-quality vanilla extract. Maple extract may be substituted if desired)
Equipment: Candy thermometer, Waxed paper

In a large, heavy pot (preferably cast iron), combine the brown sugar, granulated sugar, milk, and salt. Place the pot over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently until the sugar dissolves. Stirring every few minutes now to avoid sticking and burning, cook until the temperature reaches "soft ball" stage (240 F) on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the chopped pecans, margarine, and vanilla. Allow the mixture to stand and cool for 10 minutes without stirring. Lightly oil a large sheet of waxed paper or a slab of marble.

After 10 minutes, stir the mixture until the consistency is right for spooning (50 to 100 strokes).

Using a serving spoon, drop the pralines on the waxed paper or marble slab, and allow to dry for 30 minutes. With a spatula, gently lift and turn each praline over, to dry out the base.

Store in a covered container at room temperature. Pralines are best when served within 2 to 3 days (if there any are left-over that long).

NOTE:

Sister Mary suggests that you use an iron pot for the best results.

This holds true for many recipes and most good cooks treasure cast iron pots that have been passed down for generations. They can be found at relative’s homes, garage and estate sales, flea markets, second-hand shops and e-bay or new at a kitchen supply store. The preferred brand is Griswold. New or rusted iron pots must be well scoured before use. Dry thoroughly in a warm oven. Cool then season by wiping them liberally inside and out with vegetable oil, then slowly heat in the oven at 250° degrees for three hours. Once seasoned, clean by wiping out with a paper towel and never immerse in water, or you must re-season the pot.

Caution: boiling sugar sticks to
the skin and is extremely
painful. Please take care.




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