test cook

Broussard’s
Cherries Jubilee
Serves 6

Headnote:

Chef Gunter Preuss with Evelyn, his wife, created another of New Orleans restaurant families when they acquired and restored Broussard’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. Their son Marc now presides over the lovely establishment, founded in 1920, which opens to a grand Vieux Carre patio. Gunter serves Cherries Jubilee when he wishes to highlight a special occasion. Marc carries on the tradition.

Cherries Jubilee

1 quart vanilla ice cream
2 pounds fresh cherries, clean and pits removed or substitute
2 (16-ounce) cans dark sweet cherries, drained; liquid reserved
2 tablespoons Cherry Heering, Cherry Marnier or a good sweet cherry brandy/liqueur. Chambord, a raspberry liqueur, may be substituted in a pinch
2 tablespoons cognac for flaming

Mash 1 cup of cherries with liquid and place with drained cherries in a saucepan over low heat. Pour liquid in with cherries and heat until reduced by half. Pour the cherry liqueur in with the cherries and stir.

Just before serving, pour warmed brandy into a ladle and light. Pour over cherries. Allow blue flame to burn off and immediately spoon cherry mixture over vanilla ice cream.

See guidelines for safely flaming on p.XXX

Sidebar:

Various flags have flown over Louisiana, most notably Spanish and then French. A significant part of our more refined culinary heritage comes courtesy of French cooking.

Cherries Jubilee was created to honor Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee, the fiftieth year of her reign, by French chef Auguste Escoffier. The elegant, majestic dessert has been featured and flamed in many of New Orleans’ better restaurants but has become a rarity on menus. Ignited at the table, it is a spectacular gesture of gala celebration.

Cherries are in season from the end of May through August, hitting their peak around the 4th of July. Short but sweet. At other times, they are probably imported, if they can be found at all. Canned or frozen cherries make an acceptable substitute. I don’t know why September 24 is Cherries Jubilee Day, when they are out of season. Who decides these things?