test cook

Floating Island seemed to be a thing of our past until we rediscovered it at Crozier’s, another New Orleans restaurant memory that happily lingers on many taste buds. Chef Gerard Crozier, a native of Lyon, brought Eveline, his wife, culinary sensibilities and a Floating Island recipe from France. Friday evenings at Crozier’s were especially delightful and the only time just a few servings of his Floating Island were offered. Connoisseurs were careful to keep this treat to themselves, often calling ahead and reserving their portions.

In a perfectly clean bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer slowly at first, gradually adding 1/4 cup of sugar then continue to beat at high speed until very stiff peaks form.

Scald the milk, adding 1/4 cup of sugar and vanilla and stir until the sugar has dissolved

Drop large tablespoon-sized dollops of the beaten egg white/sugar mixture onto the surface of the milk, poaching the egg whites for 4 to 5 minutes, turning once. These will be the islands. Remove them from the milk carefully with a slotted spoon and set aside on a platter. Reserve the milk.

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl with 1/2 cup of sugar and add the hot milk, stirring vigorously. Cool and strain. Set aside.

Make a caramel sauce by boiling the last 3/4 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup of water for about XXX minutes to a syrup consistancy.

To serve, pour equal amounts of the remaining milk mixture into four shallow bowls. Carefully slip islands to float atop each. Drizzle caramel sauce in swirls across top. Add seasonal berries and fresh mint as a garnish.

Variation: Rather than a caramel drizzle, puree some of the fruit garnish creating a coulee, and drizzle with that color instead.

sidebar Floating Island is reminiscent of certain times when temperature and atmospheric conditions are in alignment and a fog layer drifts on the surface of the Mississippi River. Above the great puffs and curls, clear sky and the riverbank’s crescent reveal themselves in vivid colors. Dockside, a paddle wheeler with calliope singing waits to churn into the river. It’s an old-fashioned dessert, a serving of pure bliss. It came to Louisiana via France, traveling the same route across the ocean as so many of our great dishes. My husband’s family cook was Anna Bolan, who joined them shortly before Billy arrived. She possessed an astonishing memory. Once a recipe was discussed, no matter how complex, she prepared it flawlessly. Then, she would add her refinements, always improving and making the recipe her own. Before retiring, she allowed me to spend hours assisting–more watching rather than being of any real help–as she cooked. Floating Island was a family favorite and prepared whenever Anna felt that the occasion required a festive dessert.