Kit Wohl is a cookbook author and photographer. These recipes are available for anyone who would like to take them out for a test cook run.
"Cooking is an art and a form of creative expression," she says. "Food is distinctive in form, color, texture, and flavor. The selection, preparation, and presentation of a meal are as creative as any art project. Best of all, it nurtures both the body and the spirit."
LE RUTH'SPave au ChocolateDensely chocolate, Warren’s pate is a forerunner to the now famous flourless chocolate cake. Both Commander’s Palace and Arnaud’s, among other restaurants, have their own versions and chocolate lovers rejoice. He delighted in keeping secret a few ingredients from recipes he happily handed out. Only minor sins of omission. Sadly he never published a major cookbook, only two small pamphlets, one to celebrate his restaurant’s 20th anniversary and the other named Front Door, Back Door. This recipe is from the former.
Yield: Eight servings
1-8” cake pan, the bottom lined with a circle of parchment cut to fit
12 eggs (separate yolks from whites)
12 oz. unsalted sweet butter
12 oz. sweet dark chocolate
1 tbs. LeRuth’s Vanilla Bean Marinade
Melt chocolate. Beat egg yolks and fold into the chocolate. Then fold in melted butter. Whip whites until they are stiff and fold carefully into mixture. Pour into cake pan and cover.
Chill overnight.
Slice into small pie-shaped wedges.
Garnish with fruit couli or fresh fruit.
To create a light chocolate mousse, simply fold in 8 stiffly beaten eggs.
Serve topped with whipped cream or place a slice in a puddle of crème anglaise.
New Orleans as a city for fine dining beyond Creole cuisine came to national attention in 1965 when the late Chef Warren LeRuth renovated a Victorian shotgun cottage across the Mississippi River in old Gretna and shook our culinary world.
Irascible and exacting, Warren was not only creative but also a fearlessly innovative chef. In food circles he was the Renaissance man. Rather than expand along it with his restaurant’s popularity he removed tables.
Generous with his time and talent, he developed many dishes for other restaurateurs, which remain on their menus. Fond memories from the many chefs he mentored, former guests and friends keep his presence as vibrant as his food.
As a research chef, Warren developed many products including a special vanilla bean marinade, which continues to be the creme de la creme of flavorings. It is available at www.jfolse.com, and well worth the effort.